The only famous ride in the Hills that we hadn't done was the Devil's Tower. An exposed volcano, the Tower is about a two-hour run from Rapid City along a winding route that ventures into neighbouring Wyoming. My impressions of this state involves actors like Glenn Ford and westerns featuring homesteads and cowboys. The landscape is pastoral beauty- rolling hills, and there really are ranches with names redolent of the old-movie era, like the Circle J and the Triple M. Or something like that.
The Tower is another tourist site, and as with all Black Hills attractions, there are abundant items of interest for travelling families in the form of kiddie fare, restaurants and gift shops. We found our tastes better satisfied in the nearby town of Hulett, Wyoming- pop. 383. (Don't laugh- in Buford, WY, the population is 1.) Other towns along route 24 boast similar metropolitan density, like nearby Alva (pop. 97), which contains one person per square mile.
Nine miles north of the Tower, Hulett's main street restaurants and bars are a must-see for the travelling biker, with live music both indoors and out. Cool Willie and the Frigidaires were playing on the outdoor stage at the rear of the Ponderosa Cafe. Playing a mixture of old rock and R&B, Cool Willie was wholly entertaining, especially in the last of their sets that we caught when they invited a young fella from Chicago who was playing a duo indoors to join them between his sets. Patrick Keifer traded blazing guitar riffs with the man we assumed to be Willie to the delight of the assembed. What a great afternoon!
The trip to Devil's Tower also introduced us to the Wyoming Highway Patrol. We were pulled over along the scenic route by a State Trooper who flagged Evil for having no headlight on his bike. Turns out the low-beam bulb had expired, and the Officer was lenient and understanding enough to let him off with a warning citation. And a lesson learned in addition to a circle check? Always obey the speed limit- no speeding tickets for us!
Back to Hulett for a moment (cut 'n paste on an iPad is still a risky maneuver for me), the little town hosts a variety of shops, including an antique store which has vertical, open coffins out front in which you can take your picture for no charge, although donations are welcome (the sign says: "We're not trying to get rich, we're just trying to pay off the sumbitch!")
As this was our last day the Black Hills, a final trip to Sturgis was in order. The town was in full rally bloom, and as had been the case for all but the first day we were there, morning clouds had given way to another brilliant day of warm sunshine.
We said goodbye to One-Eyed Jacks Saloon and the enjoyable noise and madness of Lazelle and Main Streets, but made a final pit stop en route back to Rapid in the small town of Piedmont on Sturgis Road that runs parallel to I-90 to check out a bar we had spotted a few times that could be used for a motorcycle commercial. A weathered board and batten exterior, bikes angle-parked in front and a mix of regulars and Sturgis event bikers inside. A friendly waitress brought the best burger I have had in years.
It was to be the last visit we would make in Sturgis 2013. Next up is packing and heading home. Don't recall a week passing so quickly or more enjoyably.
We'll be back.
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